I was anxious for the chocolate flan to cool, so I could taste it. I was doing a test-run for a Mexican dinner I was catering in a couple weeks.
Finally, the hour-long cooling period was over, and I dipped a spoon into the ramekin. When I scooped the creamy concoction from the dish, I noticed it was a little more rubbery than usual. When I put the spoon into my mouth, I instantly spit it out.
Are there one or two e’s in blech?
My first thought was that it cooked too fast. I remembered the knife came out too clean after just 30 minutes. In fact, there wasn’t as much custard the dish than usual. Strange…
A couple hours later, the light went on in my head. I realized I left the sugar out of the custard. Oops! That would explain the blech!
But, sometimes, great things come from mistakes.
Eager to make up for the boo boo, the next day I set out to prove that I could, indeed, cook. This time I wouldn’t forget the sugar. When I tested the flan while it was cooling, I knew I had stumbled on to the perfect combination of chocolate, milk, egg, sugar and cinnamon. That night, after the ramekins had been refrigerated for four hours, I ate my first one. It was scrumptious. A few hours later, I devoured another.
The next day, I took the chocolate flan to work, eager to hear people’s comments. The foodies in the ANG Living section know good food. Sometimes, I’m not quite sure what I have when I ask for their opinions, but this time I knew they’d love it.
In fact, the food editor asked for the recipe, as did another editor. Another co-worker said she would pay for it — exactly what a burgeoning chef wants to hear.
One of my editors asked me what my secret was. I told her it was the cinnamon. No, wait, it’s the chocolate. No, actually, it’s the vanilla. Or is it the caramelized sugar? The truth is, it’s all of those things combined into one decadent dessert. — Doug Mead
Chocolate Flan
From Doug Mead, owner of Awesome Salsa & Guacamole Co.
5 cups whole milk (you can substitute with low-fat milk, but it will not be as creamy or tasty. Half-and-half, on the other hand, has too much cream)
2 cinnamon sticks, preferably Mexican canela
1 cup granulated sugar (for the flan)
3 ounces dark chocolate (you can use Mexican chocolate, but if you do, omit the cinnamon sticks because it’s already infused.)
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 cup granulated sugar (for the caramelized sugar)
4 eggs, at room temperature
2 cups of hot water for water bath (you’ll need a pan big enough to fit 12 ramekins in or a pie pan)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan set over medium heat, bring the milk to a slow boil and add the sugar and cinnamon sticks. Be careful not to bring it to a full boil, and do not cover with a lid. Simmer for one hour.
Meanwhile, chop the chocolate into small pieces so that it will melt easily. Drop it into milk and stir in. Stir every 10 minutes or so until the chocolate has been fully incorporated into the milk. At some point, a milk film will appear, but don’t worry about it, because you’re going to remove it later with a strainer.
In the last 10 minutes, add the vanilla, but not before, because it will evaporate with heat. The same goes if you wanted to add a liquor such as raspberry or Godiva (1 tsp). Remove milk from heat and let cool for 15 mnutes.
Preheat oven at 325 degrees.
Add half a cup of sugar to a saute pan and set over medium-high heat. After a few minutes, it will begin to bubble and caramelize. Reduce heat to low. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon. When it is medium brown, pour it into 12 individual ramekins or a pie pan and spread with a spoon. It will instantly harden.
Cleanup tip: Immediately add water to the pan and return it to the heat. In a minute, the hardened product will turn to sugar water, making cleanup easier.
While the milk cools, beat the eggs with a hand-held mixer at medium speed for 3-4 minutes. This will make your custard a little fluffier than if you beat the eggs with a fork.
Pour the milk mixture through a fine-meshed strainer. Add a few tablespoons of the hot milk to the eggs and stir. This will temper the eggs so they don’t curdle. Repeat about three more times, then add the egg mixture to rest of the milk in the pan and stir with a spoon. If you see any curdling, pour the mixture through a clean strainer again.
Pour the mixture into the ramekins or pie pan and set into a large pan for the water bath. Place pan on middle rack of the oven, then add the hot water to the outer pan. The water should not go more than halfway up the sides. Cover the entire pan with foil to eliminte a crust forming on the custard.
Bake for about 40 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out almost clean. It’s best if a little of the custard sticks to the knife or toothpick, because it’s going to continue to cook in the next 10 minutes. If it comes out too clean, it cooked too long. If that is the case, omit the next step.
The cooking time is determined by the depth of the custard. I’ve found that about 2 inches is optimum. Thinner than that, and the custard cooks too quickly. Thicker than that is OK, but plan for a longer cooking time.
Remove the pan from the oven, but keep the flan in the hot water for 10 more minutes to help it set, then remove it from the water and let cool for one to two hours. When cool, place the flan in the refrigerator for four hours or overnight before serving. It can also be served warm after cooling down for about 30 minutes, but it won’t stay firm during serving.
Before serving, run a knife around the edge to loosen the flan from the pan. If you’re using a ramekin, invert it onto a serving plate and remove. It’s great to watch the syrup ooze over the the flan. If you’re using a pie pan or casserole dish, place a platter or cookie sheet over the dish and invert quickly and let your guests ooh and ahh.
In the back of my mind, there’s always a question of whether or not that hard caramel will actually soften into a syrup and remain that way through cooling and refrigeration, but in the dozens of flans I’ve made, it always happens.
Magic, science, whatever. It’s just cool to watch. Each and every time.
Serves about 10-12.