This is the first post in an occasional series I will call EatGeek — that is, geeky food things I do in the kitchen when no one is looking. Are you an EatGeek too? Message me!
EatGeek n. A person who thinks and talks about and/or obsesses and experiments with food to a point that may ,or may not, be healthy. An EatGeek’s ability to cook is also imperative.
My friend Arlette and I have been talking a lot about duck fat lately.
Arlette is a true EatGeek, she once invited me to an entire evening centered around the inagural use of a deep fryer. We christened it Julia Child and burned our fingers repeatedly. That’s how we roll.
Anyway, we’ve been discussing the culinary glory of duck fat — its ability to make potatoes oh-so-crispy, its key role in confit, its succulent work in cassoulet — and the appropriate ways to render, save and utilize the stuff.
I know, I know, this is icky to some of you. But here’s the thing: If we’re going to eat things like ducks and chickens and cows and pigs, it makes sense to have an intimate knowledge with all the parts of that animal, no? Otherwise we should stop eating meat entirely. Right? Maybe I’m wrong…
Anyway, anyone who’s ever cooked a duck knows there’s copious amounts of fat involved. While duck meat is fairly lean, all that ducky’s warmth comes from a thick layer of fat under the skin. Cook it nice and slow and the fat renders (to be poured off and saved for later) and the skin crisps deliciously. But any mistreatment (cooking too quickly, failing to score it) of the skin can lead to a rubbery, unpalatable disaster.
In the spirit of using every part of the animal, Arlette and I have been experimenting with ways to best extract and utilize the fat. She recommends using a garlic press to squeeze out every last bit of fat from a cooked duck. She even gifted me a container of the stuff after she did it.
But the other day I reached duck fat nirvana.
While testing recipes for the Food and Wine section I had to simmer a whole duck, with the skin OFF. This not only meant wrestling the skin off a duck — which is another story altogether — but also figuring out what to do with it because it wasn’t utilized in the recipe. Should I make “duck rinds”? Save the skin for a gallantine (a fancy rolled terrine-like thing that requires duck or chicken skin)? Render it slowly over a low flame?
Obviously I chose the rendering. After an hour of slow, slow rendering the skin was about a quarter of its size and I’d poured off 2 cups of fat. I chilled it overnight in the refrigerator until it was solid then used a melon baller to scoop it into uniform pieces. Then I lined them up on a rimmed baking sheet and froze those suckers until they were really, really solid. They’re now in a bag labeled “Duck Fat” on the top shelf of my freezer, ready to be used in small, or large amounts whenever I need them.
The problem is, now I don’t want any duck fat, I’m all ducked out. Time to geek out on something else for a while. Suggestions?
– Jenny Slafkosky