I don’t know much about the wine business, and even less about the famous Mondavi family written about in “House of Mondavi,” by Julia Flynn Siler (Gotham, $28), which may be the reason why I was so fascinated by this book.
First, it reads much like a novel, with fun details about who said what and how they were dressed, offering lots of mind-pictures about what it was like to grow up in the Mondavi family.
I loved reading about the company parties and family squabbles over who paid rent and who did not. But what really grabbed my attention was the poignancy of the Mondavi story, a story about family and expectations, and about what parents do to their children, often unwittingly.
First, let me share that a few weeks ago I made an error in my wine column. I mistakenly referred to Rob Mondavi, grandson of Robert Mondavi, as Robert. I might have laughed at the request for a correction, but after reading “House of Mondavi,” I didn’t laugh. I understood.
The reality is that the Mondavis, for all of their wine expertise, money, fame and power, are no less human than the rest of us. Past generations of this beloved Napa Valley family had issues that, sadly, resulted in losing control of their company.
For those who don’t plan to read the book, here’s the short version:
Cesare and Rosa Mondavi moved from Minnesota to Lodi to grow grapes and make wine. The couple had two daughters and two sons, Robert and Peter. One son, Peter, was an extraordinary winemaker. The other son, Robert, was an ambitious marketing genius.
Cesare favored one son over the other, creating tension that eventually led to outright fisticuffs between the two. All the money and fame the two went on to achieve could not erase those feelings. The two parted ways. Peter Mondavi took over the family’s Charles Krug winery. Robert Mondavi built his own wine empire.
Mondavi’s favored son Robert had two sons of his own, Michael and Timothy, whom he also treated unequally. The sons were therefore at odds, hurt that their father appeared to love and respect one more than the other. Battles ensued.
Mondavi’s son Peter also had two sons, Marc and Peter, and in spite of the fact that he himself had lived in the shadow of his brother, he too treated his sons unequally.
Schisms between family members who were all more or less involved in the family business of making wine eventually led to taking the business public, which in turn led to losing control over the Mondavi wine business entirely.
There are lots of other threads of interest throughout the book, but since I love novels, this tale about fathers and sons was the one that intrigued me most.
Other readers might be more fascinated by the corporate details, including the many difficulties the Mondavis encountered while pioneering the idea of wine partnerships in other wine regions, including France and South America.
I was also shocked to learn that the demise of this company had much to do with the astounding generosity of Robert and Margrit Mondavi, who pledged so much to so many that falling stock prices put even their private homes in jeapordy.
Anyone who has enjoyed a glass of Mondavi, or praised California wines should pick up this book and read. Even those who don’t understand all of the business issues will learn a lot about the genesis of the wine industry here.
The Mondavi family may not approve of the tell-all style of the book, but they can certainly take great pride in the fact that their family - complications and all - still gets credit for making Napa Valley one of the top wine-producing regions in the world. _ Jolene Thym