Because I’d already seen the new chef at The Restaurant at Wente in action — serving up duck confit and roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms to crowds of people who likely had no idea how expensive and time consuming the dish was to prepare — I was thrilled to accept the invitation to an early supper last week — and to stick my fork in a few more of his creations. After a tour of the winery, we were served the most unctuous appetizers ever — then seated for a five-course meal.

The first two courses came off beautifully, but when Chef Arthur Wall came out to chat about the third course, he could see that we were perplexed. On the menu was blue cheese souffle. On our dishes were salad greens.

All had not gone well in the kitchen, it seems. Half the souffles failed, creating a last-minute plate shuffle that left Wall composed but not exactly happy. ”I’ve made this so many times. I don’t know what happened,” he told us. We felt his pain.  When guests asked if they could taste some of the souffles that DID turn out, he responded, “I’ll see what I can do. Some of them are in the trash.” We laughed, picturing the kitchen craziness that must have ensued, and appreciating his honesty. Anyone who’s ever cooked for a crowd has been there.

Several minutes later, servers emerged with gorgeously appointed plates of souffles that were worth begging for. Wall, who’s been at the restaurant for just three months, is a huge fan of working with seasonal, local foods. He’s also got a touch of New Orleans in his heart — he likes to dress up his food with a little spice.

If you’re lucky enough to get a reservation at The Restaurant at Wente soon, enjoy. The new chef is likely to surprise your tastebuds.