
I am in tomato nirvana. The red juicy globes of summer are finally here, and I’ve spent the past month or so planning my week around the precious ones. As they sit on my white counter, the tastiness clock is constantly ticking down. I obsess over what to do: Should I eat the orange one today? What about the fat heirloom? If I wait until Friday will it be too late?
“I’ll have that one on a bagel in the morning,” I think to myself, plotting relentlessly my tomato eating attack. I’ll have it with red onion, cream cheese, maybe some English cuke and, as always, a few sprinkles of kosher salt. But I internally debate how much to complicate things — not wanting to lose the sweet, buttery taste of a perfect tomato amid lesser condiments and accoutrements.
I’ve been in sort of tomato recovery most of my adult life. I grew up in Nebraska, where backyard tomatoes were a dime a dozen but were often ruined by being stored in the fridge. And then there were winter tomatoes — tasteless mushy watery globs of nothingness added to salads for no good reason, their slimy seedy guts spilling out everywhere.
The only purpose of those tomatoes was to hold some salad dressing perhaps, or to serve as an obligatory layer in the BLT triumvirate.
It’s only been recently that I’ve seen the light. I’ve begun eating them only in the summer, when I can buy them weekly at my local farmers market. I protect them like a guard dog from those who want to send them to their death in the flavor-sucking fridge. When one accidentally ends up there, I am actually saddened.
I’ve pondered growing them myself, but I’m not quite ready. I sort of like going to the market and selecting my little friends. I like having to wait for something good.
I’ve been experimenting with how I like them best: A few grains of salt on a plate. Or on a sandwich with a slice of cheese, mayo and avocado. I regularly make bread salad or marinate them with red wine vinegar and olive oil.
But this summer I stumbled upon a great suggestion in the July issue of Oprah magazine. The article by Celia Barbour about rediscovering the joys of the tomato sandwich of her childhood was inspiring. I must pass it along:
Take two slabs of bread. (I used fresh store-bought multi-grain, but I imagine homemade would be heavenly.) Smear generous swaths of mayo on both slices of bread. Add a few slices of fresh tomato sprinkled with a few grains of sea salt. And yes, that’s it. Plain and simple.
I swear this sandwich (best eaten standing up in the kitchen on a lazy warm afternoon) melted in my mouth. I ate it quickly. I stood silently in the afternoon with the lights off and the kids distracted in the back yard. I didn’t want to share it with anyone. They just wouldn’t understand.
I craved a second immediately but decided against it. One would be enough.
Alas these tomatoes of summer don’t last long. If they’re perfect to eat one day, they might be past their prime the next. It’s the nature of these treats. They’re as fleeting as the month they best shine in.
– Kari Hulac