Trying to like Widmer Hefeweizen (and failing)
By William Brand
Sunday, August 10th, 2008 at 11:37 pm in Craft Beer, General.
Let’s be honest here. I like a lot of beers from Widmer Brothers in Portland, beers like Droptop Amber, are really OK. The fact that Anheuser-Busch owns 49 percent of the company doesn’t bother me a wit.
My problem is – and always has been – Widmer Hefeweizen. I know it’s their flagship beer; I know it sells well in the Bay Area and obviously, a lot of people really like it. You see it with that damn, stupid slice of lemon, at cafes everywhere.
Last week a PR woman from Widmer called me and asked if I wanted their “press kit.” Ever since I worked in the business section at the Oakland Tribune, where we were constantly deluged with PR pitches and reporters and editors were nearly universally rude, I’ve been polite to PR folks. It’s an ugly job, calling people who don’t want to hear from you and tell them about something they usually don’t give a damn about.
So, when the young woman from Widmer or from the agency representing Widmer, called, I was polite. Sure, I said, send it along. They sent it, two bottles, a glass and yes – a lemon.
I opened at dinner Friday night and poured samples for the table sans lemon. Nobody liked it. One thing, it made the beer a friend of my daughter brought – Coors Honey Moon – taste good. To me, Honey Moon has always been too bland. Blue Moon, the unadulterated wit is execllent. But Honey Moon? Well, it does have some malt sweetness and a tiny hoppy follow and after a shocking swig of Widmer Hefe, it tasted excellent.
OK, now it’s Sunday night. I thought, in fairness, I’d give it another try. I thought, ‘Who actually likes Widmer Hefe?’ Well, women and other people who usually order one of this dreadful house white wines.
So, I reasoned, let’s approach this hefe from the perspective of someone who wouldn’t know a hefe from a rattlesnake and can stomach bland white wine. And yes, I stuck a wedge of lemon on the rim of the glass and let a little bit of lemon juice run into the glass.
Here are my notes:
- Cloudy, unfiltered tawny gold, long-lasting, creamy head. Aroma: lemon, of course, from the lemon.
- Taste: Full mouth feel, but no malt sweetness. bone dry from start to finish with an odd hop bitterness at the end of the finish.
- My conclusion: An unusual, totally American beer. Definitely an alternative to Bud Light or cheap California house wine. But anyone familiar with German hefes – Erdinger or Paulaner, or some of the better American ones like Gordon Biersch, will find this one lacking. It’s too dry and that weird bitterness at the end. It has its fans and good for that. But I’m not one of them.
- Rating: Two Stars.
[Both comments and pings are currently closed.]
August 11th, 2008 at 6:56 am
While I agree that it’s not the best example of a Hefe, I find that it’s usually the best option at most restaurant bars. I’m not a Sierra Nevada fan, and I’ll stick with water rather than drink a Bud. But, it does require the lemon to give it flavor, and I drop my lemon into the beer rather than leave it on the rim.
August 11th, 2008 at 8:04 am
Julie,
Have you tried dropping a lemon into a Bud to give it flavor?
August 11th, 2008 at 8:09 am
I had a similar thought as you William. We were at a chain restaurant which I choose not to name out of shame, and the Widmer was on the Happy Hour special. I figured why not. It came in a frosty glass, ice sliding down the side, and with a half lemon already given a slight squeeze and jammed onto the rim. It was bland and watery, the biggest flavor came from an overly bitter lemon that tastes more like rind than fruit. I considered tell them to bring another without a lemon, but realized, the beer wasn’t going to change.
I agree, Widmer has much better beers in their lineup, this one is just boring.
August 11th, 2008 at 8:59 am
Yes, Widmer Hefe is what it is, an unusual, all-American product.
August 11th, 2008 at 9:17 am
I would choose water (no ice) over Widmer Hefe.
August 11th, 2008 at 9:59 am
To me, there are two distinct styles of beer.
1- German Hefeweizen Beer
2- American Wheat Beer
They are not the same beer. If you drink one expecting the other, you will be disappointed.
Personally, I have given up on the German Hefeweizen style. Clove & banana is not my taste. Note: Millions of Germans disagree with me.
I can enjoy American Wheat beers. Sort of a thirst quenching, refreshing drink. Great in the sun or with certain foods.
I am a homebrewer. This year I brewed a beer for a hot summer. I called it my International Wheat Beer. American Wheat Grainbill + English Ale Yeast + German Noble Hops = 1 tasty beer under the hot sun. Never with a lemon.
August 11th, 2008 at 11:55 am
Funny Brewnot, I can’t like an American Wheat beer as much as I try them, but love the German style. Never have enjoyed a Widmer, but like William Droptop is a decent Amber ale.
August 11th, 2008 at 7:02 pm
Brewnot hit it dead on. American and German Hefe’s are two different animals entirely.
I think a big problem with the American Hefe’s like Widmer isn’t so much the beer as the way it’s served. A frozen glass with a piece of fruit perched on top (unless they ask first and it’s your preference) is no way to serve a beer. Hefe has become synonymous with Summer and thus I think bar owners think it has to be served as cold as possible.
August 11th, 2008 at 9:00 pm
William your review has blatant honesty and that is awesome! I enjoy quite a few American wheat beers ( even though most are too fruity for me), but German style hefe’s match my taste buds a lot better. The Erdinger and Weihenstephaner hefe’s are my faves and seem to rely more on a great wheat taste with hints of cloves and bananas. While I also respect Widmer, the hefe is just dry and bland, and I haven’t had many beers where adding a lemon actually improved the overall taste.
William I’m curious, how do you feel about some of the summer style wheat beers like Bell’s Oberon or New Belgium’s Sunshine Wheat?
August 12th, 2008 at 11:03 am
Bell’s beers never make it out here, so I’m not familiar with their wheat. I rather like Sunshine Wheat. It doesn;t exactly leap out at me, but it’s quite drinkable, a very good, American-style wheat beer. I really like Bavarian wheats, especially Erdinger. I also like wheats with a bit more zip, Belgian-style. My favorite this summer is Noth Coast Le Merle, a saison-style.
August 12th, 2008 at 3:18 pm
I love your honesty! Running a beer blog in the NW, I would be burned at the stake for such an article. Although many locals bash me for my honest and pithy blog posts.
Thanks for keeping it real!!
August 15th, 2008 at 8:22 am
the first time i had this was a few years back . i thought it was good for a hefe . i had one recently though and can really agree with you , it now tastes like garbage . kind of sad but all good things must come to an end . even ones that aren’t all that good to begin with
August 15th, 2008 at 11:11 am
Yeah, it;s a bitch, isn’t it. I really wanted to like it this time, but…bleahh.
October 5th, 2008 at 12:19 pm
Great brewery with great products and a GOOD name. Visit them when in the Seattle area.
October 6th, 2008 at 8:35 am
Well Merle, every time I’m in Portland, I visit Widmer Bros. I like their beer a lot. Don’t care for the hefe, however. Note my subtle correction: Widmer is located at 929 N Russell St. Portland, OR 97227, (503) 281-2437 . Don’t believe they have anything in Seattle.