By Jessica Yadegaran
Thursday, October 11th, 2007 at 12:00 pm in Uncategorized.
It’s been a while since a biodynamic wine really moved me. I was on quite the organic kick last year, obsessed with Felton Road and Ceago Vinegarden, but mellowed out after I had a few wines that tasted like cranberry tree water.
But, last night, two small-production gems from Benziger brought me back to biodynamic. You can only taste these wines in the winery, but it’s worth a stop if you’re in Glen Ellen. While you’re there, ask about the winery’s Vineyard Tram Tour, where you can learn the details about making wine by the light of the moon.
2006 Sauvignon Blanc Shone Farm, Russian River Valley ($29). A perfectly clean and crisp wine with a lot of floral aromas and grapefruit on the palate. A perfect example of brisk acidity that would make a fish lover out of anyone. I rarely pay this much for an SB (in fact, I think Cloudy Bay’s the only one I have paid more than $25) but this, this is worth it. Note: the grapes were grown by sustainable farming methods and are in the process of becoming certified organic. 836 cases.
2005 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Obsidian Point, Sonoma Mountain ($55): This wine comes entirely from one block of their Sonoma Mountain Estate, where high concentrations of obsidian, a volcanic rock, are present. That’s what contributes to its amazing complexity, with everything from currant to roasted anise flavors on the palate and a marathon-like finish. This wine, which is certified biodynamic, was just bottled in July. Hard to believe, as it has the suppleness and carefree strength of a sexy 40-year-old in a room of 20-somethings. Drink this with a New York strip steak or a grilled Portabello mushroom burger. 560 cases.