Bottoms Up

Beer and wine in the Bay Area and beyond

Opus One dinner, an evolution of terroir

By Jessica Yadegaran
Tuesday, December 11th, 2007 at 11:19 am in Uncategorized.

Writers tend to save the best for last, it’s called a story’s ‘kicker.’ Some of us take this technique to the extreme, putting off the retelling of an event because the experience was all too transformative for us, and we fear that in the retelling, it will no longer be ours. We’re afraid we’ll lose it.

It’s neurotic, yes, but true. And it’s partly the reason I haven’t blogged about last week’s Opus One winemaker’s dinner until now. I had to gather my thoughts about the wines and dig up my notes from the last time I indulged in Opus One, shortly after Marke proposed to Jenny last year, and we opened that 1999 magnum.

I had the pleasure of sampling that wine again last week, when Opus One winemaker Michael Silacci, fresh off a flight from Paris, presented it as a surprise addition in a flight of vintages that included the 2004, 2001, 1997 and later, at the whim of San Francisco Four Seasons GM Doug Housley, the 1990.

I know, it was a good night.

Here are my standouts:

2001: What a prime example of that prized year for Cabernet Sauvignon, which yielded tiny berries of unparalleled concentration. Think of it as a spiced — and spiked — blackberry pie that is layered with pepper, Madagascar vanilla and cacao nibs. Satin love, especially with the Seasons’ Veal T-Bone and violet mustard. Composition: 87% Cab, 6% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec.

1999: If the 2001 is satin, this wine is silk. A late summer resulted in an extra dimension of maturity for these grapes, and this is what we find in the glass: creamy tannins carrying cassis and black plums that glide down the throat with a finish that goes on and on. If the nose on the 2001 is pepper, this wine has intense aromas of vanilla and violets. The Merlot really shines through. Composition: 84% Cab, 7 % Merlot, 5% Cab Franc, 3% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot.

1990: Soft and pure (no Malbec or Petit Verdot here) with creamy silk, this wine had a gathered quality about it. It’s nose was of faint, crushed flowers and its flavors of subtle peppers. It was altogether something special and proof that the best of California can most certainly age alongside its buddies across the Atlantic. A treat to taste, I bet it will be even better in 3-5 years. Composition: 87% Cabernet, 10% Cab Franc, 3% Merlot.

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No Responses to “Opus One dinner, an evolution of terroir”

  1. Chip Ferguson Says:

    Hi Jessica,

    What a great event huh ? I loved that they were freely pouring and it was really fun trying the 01, 97 and 04 side by side.

    The 2 friends I was with liked the ’04 the best (creamy w/ hints of vanilla I thought) but I just loved the ’01.

    We also had fun at the JC Cellars event last month. I woudn’t have known about either event if it hadn’t been for you. Keep sharing the event “heads-ups”, we love them.

    Two cool places I’ve tried in Rutherford/St. Helena lately are Del Dotto (just opened a new MAGNIFICANT tasting facility off of 29 at Zinfandel Lane). Great Cabs, lots of variety. HIGHLY Recommended. Also – Round Pond (seating outside w/ a big fireplace) and a beautiful view. Nice Cabs. Food paired (by a chef/caterer they bring in if you have an appt.) with 3
    different vintage Cabs. (All good)

    Chip Ferguson

  2. Chip Ferguson Says:

    Hi Jessica,

    What a great event huh ? I loved that they were freely pouring and it was really fun trying the 01, 97 and 04 side by side.

    The 2 friends I was with liked the ‘04 the best (creamy w/ hints of vanilla I thought) but I just loved the ‘01.

    We also had fun at the JC Cellars event last month. I woudn’t have known about either event if it hadn’t been for you. Keep sharing the event “heads-ups”, we love them.

    Two cool places I’ve tried in Rutherford/St. Helena lately are Del Dotto (just opened a new MAGNIFICANT tasting facility off of 29 at Zinfandel Lane). Great Cabs, lots of variety. HIGHLY Recommended. Also – Round Pond (seating outside w/ a big fireplace) and a beautiful view. Nice Cabs. Food paired (by a chef/caterer they bring in if you have an appt.) with 3
    different vintage Cabs. (All good)

    Chi

  3. Jessica Yadegaran Says:

    Hey Chip,
    Thanks for the note. Yeah, the 01 Opus One was insane. I’ll have to check out Del Dotto, thanks for the tip. Plenty of fabulous events coming up for ’08, stay tuned and thanks for writing!
    Jessica

  4. Chip Ferguson Says:

    Hello Jessica,

    You may already know about it but I wanted to share that there is a Winemaker Dinner event planned for Tuesday, 1/29 at Bridge’s restaurant in Danville. Reception starts at 6:30 PM. Silver Oak. You can check out details via their website. Menu looks tempting. I’ll be there.

    Chip

  5. Jessica Says:

    Chip,
    Thanks Chip. I have many a friend who bow at the shrine of Silver Oak Cab. I’m sure they’ll want to get tickets.
    Best
    Jessica

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