Bottoms Up

A posting I did here two weeks ago: Is Budweiser Going the Way of Wonderbread? and a column I wrote in the Oakland Tribune/Contra Costa Times and on the Aleuminati on “why do Americans still drink light lager and what can we do about it” drew a lot of response.

Among people calling, e-mailing me and posting was George Reisch, whose official title is “Brewmaster, Anheuser-Busch. I’m not sure if this means he’s the head brewmaster of all the many brewmasters at A-B, but I do know he’s the point person when it comes to craft-style beer at the company.

In truth, a lot of craft beer fans disparage A-B’s efforts, but I don’t. They don’t make a bad craft-style beer. I might find some of them way too bland for my taste, but bad beer? Nope.

OK, here’s what he wrote me:

William – As any good brewer, AB gives the customers what they want. They want Bud and Bud Light for a variety of reasons. First and foremost is refreshment. Secondly, both beers enhance the flavor of foods (humble servants of culinary taste).

Lastly, pour your Bud or Bud Light in a glass (right down the middle) and see how refreshing it tastes at serving temperature (38-40 degrees Fahrenheit) and then how great it tastes as the beer warms to 50 degrees F prior to the last sip. I like to say that any great beer needs to “start with refreshment” and “finish with great taste”. That is a winning combination.
Budweiser is by far the most difficult beer I have ever brewed. Bud provides the brewers no room for errors in taste and aroma. I know as I have brewed many styles over my 29 years with AB and also thru my home brewing.

George elaborated on what he meant in a cel phone conversation with me as he drove from Los Angeles to San Diego last week where was a judge (one of more than 100 judges) at the World Beer Cup.

It’s unfair, he said, to compare say Budweiser with a strong and rich craft beer. In food, one never compares, say a souffle to a rich chocolate dessert. We should compare beers within a style. “If you want to compare stouts, for instance. We make Bare Knuckle Stout You can compare our stout with other stouts. But why compare it with Budweiser?”

About serving temperatures, he says, it’s correct to serve Budweiser ice cold. “Ice cold, Budweiser is refreshment. “

I can’t argue with you George. Bud is indeed refreshing. It’s easy to drink several. It’s just too dry and the flavor’s too delicate, far too thin for my clumsy tastes. I like thick malt and savage hops _ the malts exquisite, silky and mouth-filling and hops taking the edge off the sweetness, providing a peppy counterpoint to all that malt.

No, I couldn’t down a sixer of a beer like that if my life depended on it. So I’m willing to pay a lot more for the experience.

But when it comes to sales, A-B has it down. They’ve got over 50 percent of the beer market. My hope is that someday, a larger percentage will be Bare Knuckle Stout or the new (coming this fall) Budweiser American Ale and less of it Bud and Bud Light.