By Jessica Yadegaran
Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 at 5:35 pm in Corkheads.
There’s an excellent conversation going on at 1Winedude.com about how wine bloggers and others in the industry are changing the face of wine criticism in magazines and trade pubs. Namely, shedding light on how numerical wine ratings of mostly expensive wines are not an accurate representation of what real people drink, like, or afford.
It started with Joe Roberts’ interview with Robin Goldstein, author of “The Wine Trials 2010: The World’s Bestselling Guide to Inexpensive Wines.” I spoke with Goldstein last year, when I ran a review of the book’s inaugural 2009 edition. I’d post a link here but we don’t keep stories on our Web site that long. Sad, I know.
Anyway, I am particularly interested in how the hoax Goldstein performed on the Wine Spectator and its annual restaurant Award of Excellence program in 2007 has played out a few years later – and how it will continue to effect change.
Basically, he created a fictitious Italian restaurant and made up a wine list – including wines that the Spectator rated quite low – and they awarded him for it anyway!
For a lot of us, particularly in the newspaper industry, it only confirmed what we already knew. That the lack of separation between advertising and editorial in a lot of these magazines is very iffy, and so is why, consistently, wines made in a certain style – and for certain palates – continue to rate the highest.