There’s another “I’m the pro, you’re the newbie, let’s entertain and educate people at your expense” wine book out.

But unlike Lettie Teague’s “Educating Peter” where the narrator is Food & Wine columnist Teague, in “A Moveable Feast,” (Wiley, $18.95) Rick Kushman, a TV critic, not a wine one, is the voice of the book. His best friend, Hank Beal, is the wine buyer for Nuggest Market, and the pro here.

I haven’t read the whole book, but their journey is a fun one, as Kushman’s various get-to-know wine experiences are sincere and infused with comedy (re: his spits always wind up as dribbles). I met Kushman at the Symposium for Wine Writers in Napa back in February, and he’s a fine, self-deprecating, funny guy, not to mention a great writer. He loves wine, wine settings and the memories of sharing wine with others, which is the most important thing.

Also a bonus you won’t find in other “Sideways-type” memoirs: there’s an index of 141 tasting rooms in the back of the book, complete with directions and extras or freebies (few in Napa, obviously).

A few Saturdays ago, I found myself on the Silverado Trail in Napa following a fabulous tiki-themed party at Judd’s Hill. Winemaker Judd Finkelstein’s band The Maikai Gents played, the BBQ was award-winning, and the wine. Well, you know how I feel about the Magic. Happy place……..

So anyway, it was post bridal shower (for my best friend Jenny) and we had some time to kill in the limo so we headed to two nearby properties that I’d never visited. The first, Signorello, makes gorgeous wines at reasonable prices. My roomie Gav always has a red bottle in our wine rack, and now I can see why. The winery makes amazing Pinot Noir. I recommend the 2005 Las Amigas Vineyard: it’s all vanilla, pepper, dark plums and smoky French oak. I like to call it a light bodied Syrah. It costs $36 and well worth it. I usually pay a bit more for Pinots anyway.

The second winery we hit, Van Der Heyden, was, unfortunately, not so fab. It’s a rarity on the Trail these days to find a place that makes repeatedly poor quality or even undrinkable wines. The dark urine color of their Estate Chardonnay was pretty uncharacteristic of the varietal (it looked like an orange Moscato). The Merlot was single noted and jammy. The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon was all powdered cocoa — I expect at least 70 percent cacao-ish flavors from $50-and-over Napa Cabs. Even the White Table Wine, so hard to muck up, was sour.

I rarely go off on a winery. I always try to find the silver lining in a tasting experience, but I can’t figure out what was going on. The service was terrible and while I love winery dogs, their tasting room was far too small and low-ceilinged to tolerate his hair and odor. The only bearable wine was the 2002 Late Harvest Cab, with its 15.5 percent alcohol and 6 percent residual sugar. It’s ironic, only because I dessert wines are my least favorite. To add even more irony, the cheap truffles said to enhance the wine cost $2-something a person. We got outta there pretty fast.

My wine group met over the weekend in Point Richmond. This month’s theme: Viognier, any vintage. We always have apps and chat before tasting the wines blind, writing our impressions and then writing the wines. Finally, we discuss.

I thought it noteworthy to mention that everyone’s top 2 wines were under $12 and purchased from Wine Thieves in Lafayette. The wine I brought was voted No. 1, the McManis Viognier 2006, which I paid $8.99 for. Its aromas are peachy with apricots and the flavor screams melon and pear. Gorgeous. Everyone was hooked. Buy this now and drink it sooner.

Number two was Jenny’s, the Bridlewood Viognier 2006. A great expression of this white grape. The wine was all honeysuckle and orange blossom with some toasty Honey Nut Cheerios rockin’ the glass. With a touch of Chardonnay and Roussanne, it’s a steal at $11.99.

The bottom three bottles were from Jewel, Clautiere and a French producer that escapes me right now, but the price tag was $39.99.

I went to a free tasting at Prima Vini in Walnut Creek on Friday after work, and tasted some fabulous Proseccos. Get your hands on these while wine director John Rittmaster has them in stock. From Italia has them too:

The 2005 Zucchetto Prosecco Valdobbiadene Puro-Fol ($17.25) is great for people who like very low sugar in their sparkling wines. Because of the pure flavor, they call this the “Naked King.” There’s a lot of citrus, tangerine and grapefruit and even some mint in the aroma. The taste is creamy but crisp with a lot of mineral. The winemaker recommends it with fish.

The 2005 Zucchetto Cartizze Valdobbiadene Superiore ($24.50) is my preference. It comes from the most prestigious cru in the area. The aroma is all white peach and the flavor is glazed almonds. The finish is gorgeous. The Prosecco grapes are all estate grown. The recommend this one with desserts or sweet focaccia, but I’d have this with Thai or Vietnamese food. YUM!

I had dinner at A Cote in Rockridge last night. Delicious tuna tartare, pomegranate lamb in phyllo, artichoke soup. I actually skipped wine for one of their fabulous cocktails — mine was a lively Prosecco with grapefruit juice.

But A Cote, a bastion for delightful French tapas, is also a great place to learn about French wines, especially the juicy, au moment Loire Valley wines of Bourgueil and Chinon. I’m going to a dinner centered around Vouvray next month, and last year, I attended a Thanksgiving meal centered around their Cab Francs. Turkey and Cab Franc? You bet.

See what these wines are capable of yourself at A Cote’s upcoming winemaker’s dinner. They’re bringing in Pierre Breton of Domaine Breton. His wines, unfiltered and produced with minimal sulfur, express the terroir of the region. The reds have vivid fruit, crisp acidity and fresh flavors, all of which make them perfect for a summer table. He also has a sense of humor a la Bonny Doon, from Nuits d’Ivresse (Drunken Nights) to Le Trinch, named for the sound of two glasses clinking (in French). The 4-course meal on April 25 starts at 6 p.m. It costs $80. Here’s what you get:

First Course
Salmon with Sorrel Sauce, Asparagus, Leeks and Smoked Trout
Quenelles paired with Domaine Bréton, “Nuits d’Ivresse”, Bourgueil, Loire Valley 2003

Second Course
Boudin Blanc with Fennel Puree and Prunes paired with Domaine Bréton, “Les Picasses,” Chinon, Loire Valley 2003

Third Course
Confit of Duck Leg with Flageolet Beans paired with Domaine Bréton, “Les Perrieres,” Bourgueil, Loire Valley 2002 and Domaine Bréton, “Les Perrieres,” Bourgueil, Loire Valley 2003

Fourth Course
Fromage de Loire
paired with Domaine Bréton, “Les Picasses,” Chinon, Loire Valley 2002

Seating is limited for this special dinner, so call or e-mail today to reserve your place: events@acoterestaurant.com or 510.655.6469.

Here here to Julia Moskin’s piece in today’s Food & Wine section. Good timing. I actually cooked with a Chardonnay called Divas Uncorked Sisters Who Sip (I swear) last night. It’s a private label with the Mendocino Wine Company, and had been sitting in my fridge for over a week, half-full (screw capped, of course). It was a $13 bottle, decent in its finish, not overly buttery, with a fair amount of vanilla to round out the citrusy lemon and lime flavors.

I was tempted to open a Sauvignon Republic Cellars bottle to pour into my pasta dish, but used splashes of the Divas Uncorked instead, with my garlic, butter, lemon, non fat half and half and
salt ‘n’ peppa reduction. I agree with Moskin completely. If anything, my artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes loved the uber citrusy, simple wine. It worked with the ingredients and enhanced them, rather than overwhelming my dish, or worst yet, getting lost in the dish. (Worst, of course, if I’d used a higher quality, more expensive wine). Try it, you’ll see!

So I’m working on getting samples of the Jacuzzi wines made by the family my colleague Marton Dunai wrote about on A-1 yesterday. I know they make Primitivo, Sangiovese, Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Valeriano, a Super Tuscan. It’s nice to see a number of Italian varietals under one roof. So far, that, the fact that they’re organic, affordable ($14-$38) and Cline Cellars’ stellar reputation, is working for them. I’ll keep you posted on the wines.

On to Portugal. I attended the ViniPortugal event on Thursday in San Francisco and tried to taste as many of the 400 wines showcased by the 48 producers present. My overall impression of these wines is solid. Most are light to medium bodied in style, yet structured, with some interesting finishes. I’d never heard of many of the varietals, but admit they were easier to pronounce than Greek ones.

Below are some standouts. I’m hesitant to write about them in too much detail because of the 400 wines there, only some 20 to 30 percent are readily available for purchase in the Bay Area. The salesmen and buyers I talked to assured me that this is changing as we speak. For the time being, I suggest hitting Spanish Table in Berkeley or looking for these wine online. Here goes:

Famega Vihno Verde. From the Amarante region, this pear-tinged white is not green as the name suggests. Rather, it stuck out because it has a natural fizz. It’s not a sparkling though. It’s a light white with only 9.5 percent alcohol and less calories than other wines. It also costs less around $7.

Azamor Petite Verdot. From the Alentejo region, this inky dark purple red has a lot of tannin and was satisfying enough to drink alone or with a steak. It’s also valuable, at around $15. An importer told me it’s literally on the docks and just a matter of weeks (close to a month) until we can buy it in San Francisco.

Esquila Wines Nomisma 2002. Also in the Alentejo, this gorgeous, opulent, dark red is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s Cali-style at 14.5 percent alcohol but so earthy with firm tannins and a lot of herb. Maybe that why Jenny and I loved it so much.

Esquila Wines Dignitas Reserva 2003. Saved the best for last. Wow. This is the same blend as the Nomisma minus the Cab. I think it lets the Mediterranean soil and the Portuguese varietals really stand out. This is what the region is capable of: Deep red color, slightly less alcohol (14 percent) with tobacco, coffee and oak. What a beautiful wine.

In honor (or make that mourning) of Tax Day, the nice, nice boys at Wine Thieves in Lafayette and Clayton are waiving the sales tax on their already affordable bottles all day long. I for one plan to stock up. Call it the East Bay Wine Party (as opposed to the Boston Tea Party). But I won’t allow you to dump any wine into the Bay, even that flaming hot Wente Syrah I had the other night. Word has it there’ll be drinking too a la their Friday tastings. See you there!

I went to a book launch party for Lettie Teague last night at One Market Restaurant in San Francisco. Teague is an executive editor at Food & Wine magazine. You might know her column, Wine Matters. Her new book, “Educating Peter,” is about her one-year experience of teaching her friend of a decade, Peter Travers, the film critic for “Rolling Stone,” about wine.

Peter himself couldn’t be there (kidney stone, we were told) but to an intimate group of well-wishers (I’d say 50 peeps, tops), Teague read an excerpt from the book. I’m pretty excited to read it. The jist I got is that she uses Peter’s personality — rather quirky, with a penchant for name dropping Martin (as in Scorcese) and George (as in Clooney) — to tell the tale of how an albeit smart dude who doesn’t know the difference between Merlot and Cabernet can in fact learn. And, when you’re drinking every weekend and sometimes during the week, rather quickly at that.

Peter is a critic, after all, and we learn that his “a cinematic flop, lacking plot” can easily morph into “flabby, without character or structure.” I haven’t even read it yet but I can tell you that the film metaphor is a powerful one, and may help Hitchcockians find their bottle. Bottlenotes.com has a wine club for movie buffs. Indeed, it’s a winning combo.

These get-togethers are always fun, and the book launch was no exception. I ran into Alder Yarrow of Vinography.com, Terry Hall from Napa Valley Vintners and Mike Kohne of Rosenblum. Naturally, I also tasted some wine. I’ll tell you about the good ones tomorrow (gotta go cause I’m on deadline) but the worst wine I tasted was a fireball, a Wente Syrah made from small lots no less. Maybe it wasn’t decanted, I don’t know. I couldn’t find the small lot version on the site but the current vintage is 13.5% alcohol. This one might’ve been pushing 16. As Robert Smith says, “Hot hot hot!!” It almost singed by nose hairs.

I’ve been living on salads lately. It’s Passover, after all, so the ubiquitous sandwich lunch or light dinner has been replaced with mixed greens, Persian cucumbers (or lemon cucumbers, if you can find them at farmer’s markets), hearts of palm, feta and other goodies doused in my lemon and honey vinaigrette.

Some people feel that if they’re having a salad, it’s not “heavy” enough or substantial enough to merit a glass of wine. I beg — plead — to differ. It’s a perfect opportunity for a crisp white, from Gruner Vetliner to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. Heck, if you’ve got some butter-sauteed shrimp tossed into those greens, might as well bust out for your favorite Chardonnay.

Here’s my current salad wine obsession:

- 2005 Sauvignon Republic Cellars Russian River Valley. Citrus and tropical fruits with a lot of lemon-lime peel on the surprisingly long finish. A classic pale straw color. Get your hands on any of their expressions, from Stellenbosch to Marlborough (all $18 each).