Part of the BayArea.com Network

Archive for May, 2007

Sonoma State offers first MBA in wine biz

Kudos to Sonoma State University. Today, officials there announced that it will be the first university in the nation to offer an MBA in wine business. I’m trying to get the program director on the phone but his line is obviously flooded.

Anyhoo, not surprisingly, the Wine Business Program is 100 percent industry funded, thanks to the contributions of more than 250 wine companies. It includes a BA in Business Administration with a concentration in Wine Business Strategies, and an MBA with a concentration in Wine Business.

How cool would this be? I wonder what kind of a job you get with an MBA in Wine Business? I would assume somewhere above marketing and PR but not quite in the cellar or vineyard, either. According to the Web site, the MBA is for students seeking leadership positions within global wine business management. Hmmm…

Apparently, all the classes will be taught by the faculty of the School of Business and Economic, including Wine Marketing, Wine Finance and Accounting, Human Resources Management, Wine Business Strategies and Wine Production, Operations & Distribution.

Seems a bit weird to me, but I’m sure they plan to bring in local speakers and lecturers from the industry. Otherwise, these Economics profs are going to spend the summer cramming for fall classes. That’s quite a learning curve…

For fall enrollment, students should apply no later than July 13.

Posted on Thursday, May 31st, 2007
Under: MBA in wine biz | No Comments »

Pellegrino bottle best way to store wine

A little something I experimented with late last week: I opened up a groovy, green, bottle-cap bottle of Hofer 2005 Gruner Veltliner, the super acidic, slightly overpriced, peppery white from Austria. Unsure how to store the rest of the divine liquid, I dumped out an old bottle of Pellegrino, long gone flat, poured the Gruner Veltliner in, and tightly closed the cap.

I’ve been enjoying it every night since, and it’s holding up marvelously in my refrigerator. It’s Tuesday night people. You’d never get that with a cork!

I bought the Hofer at Monterey Street Wine Co in San Luis Obispo by the way, but I’ve heard you can find it at Vino! and Paul Marcus Wines in Oakland, and at the Wine Merchant in the Ferry Building in SF.

Posted on Tuesday, May 29th, 2007
Under: storing leftover wine | No Comments »

A Taste of New Zealand May 30 at MOMA

There’s been such a wonderful wave of wine events lately. International, get-to-know-my-grapes type soirees. Portugal. Italy. Greece. Now it’s New Zealand’s turn.

They’ve set the definitive benchmark style for Sauvignon Blanc, with its bright zest, not to mention growing attention on their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. They’re also leading the way in sustainable and environmentally sound winemaking. So get to know ‘em.

On Wednesday night, join the Taproot Foundation and the New Zealand Winegrowers for the 7th Annual Taste of New Zealand at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. It’s from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and costs $55 to sample over 150 wines from 50 New Zealand winegrowers while enjoying hors d’oeuvres in the setting of one of the city’s architectural treasures.

To buy your tickets, go to http://www.acteva.com/booking.cfm?bevaid=131092

2007 Participating Winemakers:
Artisan Wines Ltd
Babich Wines
Brancott Vineyards
Central Otago Pinot Noir Ltd.
Daniel Schuster Wines
Drylands
Fernleaf
Forrest Estate
Goldwater Wines
Huia Vineyards
Jackson Estate
Kim Crawford Wines
Lawson’s Dry Hills
Lindauer
Matua Valley Wines
Maven Wines Limited
Monkey Bay
Mt. Difficulty Wines
Mud House
Nobilo
Olssens Garden Vineyard
Omaka Springs Estate
Oyster Bay Wines
Paritua Vineyards Ltd./Stone Paddock Wines
Saint Clair Estate
Seifried Estate
Selaks Wines
Seresin Estate
Spy Valley Wines
Stoneleigh
Te Awa Winery
Te Kairanga Wines
The Crossings
The Jibe
Vavasour Wines
Villa Maria Estate
Vinoptima Estate
Wairau River
Whitehaven Wines
Wild Earth Wines
Wither Hills
Woollaston Estates

Posted on Friday, May 25th, 2007
Under: New Zealand wines | No Comments »

Slow Food Golden Glass event June 9

So, I’m getting really into Italian wines. There’s nothing more exciting to me than drinking some indigenous wine from Veneto that goes oh-so perfectly with pasta or pizza. It’s just the way it’s supposed to be. All I know is the California Cabernets my friends and I have long served with these dishes hasn’t been right. They totally over power the food, in addition to my head.

If you missed Prima’s regional Italian wine primer last week, definitely check out San Francisco Slow Food’s annual Golden Glass event June 9 from 2 to 5 p.m. at Fort Mason’s Herbst Pavilion. The cost is $50 and it’s very worth it. The Golden Glass is a lively and very important program featuring top Italian regional wines complemented by delicious delights from Bay Area restaurateurs and food producers.

The 2007 Golden Glass will celebrate the efforts of more than 60 wine producers who strive to protect, nurture, and revive the indigenous and classic Italian varieties. Attendees can also enjoy savory delights and sweet treats from a magnificent group of local restaurants, food artisans and producers. There’s also a silent auction which will benefit the new Slow Food San Francisco School Garden Project and the Chefs in the School project. And a Gala Wine Dinner on Sunday. Check it all out.

This year, the Golden Glass kicks of the launch of the Buy Fresh Buy Local campaign in San Francisco in collaboration with CAFF (Community Alliance with Family Farmers). All attendees will receive a list of all the Farmers Market and CSA programs active in the Bay and will be encouraged to become “co-producers”. You can get tickets online, in the mail or in person, as long as they last.

Here’s a partial list of this year’s winery participants. I’m so excited to check out wines from Umbria and Lombardia!

VALLE D’AOSTA
Cave du Vin Blanc
La Crotta di Vigneron
PIEMONTE
Cortese Giuseppe
Filippo Gallino
Gianfranco Alessandria
Renzo Castella
Cascina Val del Prete
Cornarea
Cascina Bruciata
Tranchero Osvaldo
Castello di Neive
Prunotto
Damilano
Josetta Saffirio
Bricco Maiolica
LOMBARDIA
Barone Pizzini
VENETO
La Montecchia
Ruggeri
Zardetto
Zenato
FRIULI
Collavini
La Tunella
Livon
Tenuta Luisa
La Boatina
EMILIA-ROMAGNA
Corte d’Aibo
TOSCANA
Fornacina
Castello del Terriccio
Querceto
Le Fonti
Fattoria Poggiopiano
Il Molino di Grace
Sassotondo
Casanuova delle Cerbaie
Cesani
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE
Cantina San Michele Appiano
Tenuta San Leonardo
UMBRIA
Caprai
Tabarrini
San Rocco
MARCHE
Marotti Campi
LAZIO
Pallavicini
ABRUZZO
Centorame
Cantine Tollo
Valle Reale
CAMPANIA
D’Antiche Terre
De Conciliis
Cantine Gran Furor Divina Costiera
SICILIA
Valle dell’Acate
Alessandro di Camporeale
Benanti
SARDEGNA
Feudi della Medusa
Pala
Antichi Poderi Jerzu
Argiolas
Pedres
PUGLIA
Accademia dei Racemi

Posted on Thursday, May 24th, 2007
Under: regional Italian wines | No Comments »

J. Lohr’s abundance

Next time you’re in Paso Robles, make sure to stop by J. Lohr. Their Cabernet Sauvignon has long been one of my favorites, sort of like Wild Horse is my staple Merlot.

I spent a good hour at J. Lohr earlier this month, and it’s easy to see how you could spend a full day there. Affordable, sophisticated wines, free tasting, picnic areas and gorgeous vineyard views, it’s out there yet accessible, on Airport Road only 3 miles north of Hwy 46 E.

I purchased 4 bottles (a rarity for me) and had to share the goods. What I like about J. Lohr is their ability to be innovative and expansive without sacrificing quality. Seems like they’ve started a few new labels since I left the area three years ago. These wines are bright, with little or no oak and a “drink me now” vibe, mostly taken from recent trips by the winemaking team to Australia and the United Kingdom. They let the fruit shine, whether it’s Pinot Noir or White Reisling. Check it out:

2005 Crosspoint Pinot Noir: It’s produced from cool climate Monterey County grapes and has a light garnet color with juicy red fruits and some earth. The soft texture of the swill would be swell with grilled salmon or roast duck, especially at $14.

2005 Cypress Vineyards White Zinfandel (I know!): There’s only one other White Zin I like, and it comes from a Greek winemaker in Lodi. Otherwise, this is the kind. Fermentation and aging occur in stainless steel to preserve every ounce of fruit intensity. The wine is sealed with the modern new Stelvin closure to ensure that the bright fruit flavors and aromas of each varietal are preserved untainted. Rosy-pink in color with enticing bright fruit aromas — and flavors — of kiwi. It’s got refreshing, palate-cleansing acidity. So the folks who don’t want red with their grilled salmon can drink this instead. Only 9.8% alcohol. Unbelievable at $6.

2006 J. Lohr Estates Wildflower Valdiguié: Grown on Chualar loam soil in the Arroyo Seco appellation of Monterey County, this grape was originally thought to be the Gamay Noir grape of France’s Beaujolais winegrowing region, but U.C. Davis has since identified this grape to be Valdiguié from an area in the southwest of France. Still smells and tastes like a Beaujolais — intense aromas and flavors of boysenberry, plum and blackberry with lingering acidity. The web site suggests serving it chilled or try it with fish and chips with aioli mayonnaise for a treat. Only $8.50!

Posted on Tuesday, May 22nd, 2007
Under: Paso Robles | No Comments »

A word on Italian regional wines

I tasted some fabulous indigenous wines from Italy last night. Unfortunately, too late for my story in yesterday’s paper, “Hi, My Name is Xinomavro.” But I can redeem myself by passing the knowledge on to you.

Based on my findings, I’d suggest skipping Tuscany, and to some extent, Piedmont, and go straight for the interesting and under-marketed wines of Sicily, Alto Adige, The Veneto, and Emilia-Romagna. Even Campania.

You see, Tuscan land is pricey and as such, so are the wines. If you’re starting out and want to learn about the diverse range of wine Italy has to offer, there’s no reason to spend the $50 or $60 that these Brunellos and Barbarescos command.

My biggest takeaway about Italians wines so far is that they’re just so smooth and easier to drink that California wines. I’m finally starting to notice it. California wines have so much more alcohol (average of 15 percent compared to 12 for Italian wines, let’s say) that to drink them with food or even after dinner while you’re watching TV can feel like a huge burden. The majority of these silky wines go down so easy without sacrificing structure or complexity.

The most gorgeous wines I tried at a tasting of regional wines were all under $35. They’re all available at Prima in Walnut Creek. Here goes:

WHITES

2004 Elena Walch Gewurtztraminer ‘Kastelaz’: It’s widely believed that Gewurtztraminer is not from Germany but from Italy. The word means “a spicy little white from Tramin,” and Tramin is a town near Trento, which is in the Alto Adige, the country’s northern most wine region. Walch married into a wine family, and now she’s one of the lead winemakers creating gorgeously fragrant and dry Gewurtz. A special treat at $34.

2005 Sibilla Falanghina, Campi Flegrei: Not my favorite — until I had it with sardines. This white grape grows in Campania, along the ocean, and it’s a magical beautiful thing, but the grape tastes like serious ocean — salty, minerally and seaweed-ish. So serve it with something that can stand up to all that salty flavor. $16.50. The winery’s red, Piedirosso, had the same salty finish, at least to me. $15.50

SPARKLING
NV Barbolini Lambrusco Grasparossa de Castelvetro: The salesman for this wine tells me Lambrusco has come a long way from the cheap stuff he and his Italian buds used to drink as kids to get drunk. This red sparkling is dark, dry, lean, and fruity, and will go fabulously with a bolognese. A perfect food wine. And a steal at $13.

REDS
2004 Poggio Bortolone Cerasuolo di Vittoria: This blend from Sicily is made with 60 percent Frappato and 40 percent Nero D’avola, both indigenous grapes. It’s a light-bodied peppery wine with a finish of rose petals and violets that just goes on and on. Very impressive to me. It was my splurge at $25.50.

2005 Elena Walch Lagrein: It’s widely believed that the Lagrein grape has been grown in the Alto Adige region since the 16th century. It used to be used primarily for blending but stands on its own beautifully in this wine. Consider it a serious Gamay, without the sweet nose. $18.50.

2004 Zenato Valpolicella Ripassa: The runaway hit of the night. This wine from the Veneto was so drinkable, so smooth, silky and luscious, I kept confusing it with a $75, 2001 red wine being poured alongside it. It was so settled, so succulent, I’m sure Prima will run out soon. $25.

Posted on Thursday, May 17th, 2007
Under: regional Italian wines | No Comments »

Regional wines from Italy, tonight at Prima

Wine-growing regions of ItalySo speaking of indigenous grapes, let’s get to know Italy better! Heard of Falanghina? How about Aglianico? (I know, sounds great, huh?). Prima in Walnut Creek was set to host an event celebrating six winemakers from different regions tonight at 6 p.m. Due to a scheduling snafu, however, the Italian winemakers can’t make it. In their absence, importers representing the six regions will come by to pour the wines. The price for the event has been reduced to $40, including passed appetizers.

Not unlike Bordeaux or Burgundy, understanding the individual characteristics of Italy’s diverse regions is the most important step we can take to help unravel the complexities of Italian wine and food. I, for one, could leave my big New World wines aside for 10 minutes and learn something. Here are the regions showing. Join me! RSVP at 925-935-7780.

Sicily….presented by Springboard Wines: 2004 Poggio Bortolone Cerasuolo di Vittoria, 2005 Di Giovanni Grecanico Blanc and 2005 Di Giovanni Nero D’avola.

Alto Adige…..featuring the wines of the famous Elena Walch including her 2005 Lagrein, 2005 Pinot Bianco, and the 2004 Tre Bicchieri winning Gewurtztraminer.

Tuscany….…presented by Kobrand: 2001 Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino, 2004 Sassicaia Guidalberto and 2004 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo.

The Veneto…..presented by the Henry Wine Group and the wines of Zenato, Allegrini and
Tommaso Bussola…from Prosecco to Amarone.

Campania……presented by Oliver McCrum Wines including indigenous varieties like Fiano di Avellino, Falanghina, Aglianico and Piedrosso. I’m particularly excited about these.

Piedmont……presented by Wine Warehouse: 2005 Conterno Fantino Barbera d’Alba, 2001 Pio Cesare Barbaresco and 2001 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Grimaldi-Le Coste.

This photo is courtesy of John Rittmaster, Prima, Walnut Creek, CA: click on it to see a larger version

Posted on Wednesday, May 16th, 2007
Under: Wine tasting | No Comments »

Great new wine shop and bar in San Luis Obispo

Never mind my shock to discover Taste, a progressive wine bar owned by the San Luis Obispo Vintners Association, on a trip to SLO last year. Now there’s another groovy wine (and cheese) bar on the opposite end of town called Monterey St. Wine Co. It’s at 1255 Monterey St., walking distance from both Cal Poly and downtown. I discovered it a few weeks ago, on a trip to interview Andrew Firestone at his new property in Paso Robles.

Unlike Taste, which focuses on wines from SLO, Monterey St. Wine Co is a sort of Wine Thieves meets Taste, without the fancy machines of course. In addition to 125 wines from all over the world including local stuff, the staff at Monterey St. offers out of the ordinary vintages and hard to find cheeses, from Portugal and Spain to Switzerland and Italy. And, like Wine Thieves, the majority of bottles are quite affordable, as in under $15. I got a bottle of 2001 Changala Cabernet (Paso Robles) for less than $15. I also picked up some Gruner Veltliner that comes in a green ale bottle. Looking forward to trying that.

The store has a bar with several stools, and the attendant there knew his wines. I got the feeling you could try whatever was open at the time. At least that’s the treatment we received!

Posted on Tuesday, May 15th, 2007
Under: Stores | No Comments »

Andrew Firestone shows me around his new winery

Jessica, Andrew Firestone and Jenny

Sunday was one of those freakishly perfect Central Coast days. The hills along Highway 101 were still green, and the weather was a steady 80 — and climbing. As Jenny and I headed north, we felt the familiar Paso Robles heat build its layer on our skin. We were going to visit Andrew Firestone, former ABC “Bachelor” and third-generation vintner, at his family’s new winery. He serves as the general manager. The vintner is no stranger to Paso fruit over the past few vintages, and the area in general. The Firestone Walker Brewing Company has been in Paso since 2001.

The location was prime: nestled between Martin & Weyrich and Eberle on Highway 46 East, and down the street from cult cab maker J.Lohr on Airport Road. They’re in good company, obviously. Firestone Vineyard was Santa Barbara County’s first estate winery, and a consistently high quality producer. They make some of my favorite value Reisling, in addition to winemaker Chuck Carlson’s out-of-this-world Rhone varietals at their second label, Curtis Winery. His 1999 Reserve Syrah, all blackberry marinated bacon, goes down as Jenny’s favorite wine of all time. (Yes, she’s had Opus One).

However, the new Paso Robles winery, with its sleek, split level masonry structure, will focus on small lots of Paso Robles-grown Bordeaux varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and maybe Zinfandel, a local darling. Production will be 4,000 cases annually, and the inaugural bottling is a 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, which we we tried. Think of those Dove chocolates melted down, sprinkled with some fall spices and finished with drippy dark fruit. It was silky and lovely, especially at $18 a bottle. Per usual, it reminded me of Napa Cabs that cost up to twice as much.

On to Andrew, which is probably the reason you’re reading this post. Yes, he’s handsome. Yes, he has a new girlfriend. He also moved to Paso and bought a Ford truck since, as most locals can confirm, you’re not a legit dude in San Luis Obispo’s North County unless you drive one. He was wearing a fitted T-shirt, jeans, sneakers and a tan when he shook our hands and gave us a tour. The 12,500-square-foot facility features a tasting room, conference and banquet room, barrel cellar, kitchen, patio and gardens with picnic areas. Yes, picnics! We got a gander at his new $9-video, Wine Ways, which introduces folks outside of California to wine country and demystifies winemaking operations.

At the tasting bar, we sampled the featured wines, at no fee (no, that wasn’t just for me. There are many wineries in Paso that still don’t charge). While the Cab was the only wine on the list showcasing Paso fruit, it was nice to get acquainted with the recent vintages overall. Perhaps the heat put us in a white mood, but boy were they delicious. The 2005 Sauvingnon Blanc Reserve ($25) was so crisp and minerally, with aromas and flavors of nectarine and peach tarts.

The 2004 Chardonnay was our kind: medium-bodied with enough control and restraint as to not overwhelm (read: little to no butter) the palate. I really think if a big name like Firestone is producing Chardonnays like this — bright honey and citrus yet still round — that the California butterball of this wine is truly on its way out. Sweetly enough, it’s only $15 and scored a gold medal for Best of Class at the SF Chronicle Wine Competition. Jenny liked the Curtis 2003 Syrah and chances are in a couple of years she’ll love it like the 1999 Reserve. It has less meat than its older brother, but just as much black fruit and mocha.

Andrew told us a great story about the last and best wine I tried that day. It’s The Ambassador, a 2003 blend of all five Bordeaux grapes that’s made from their most prized estate blocks. It’s literally the best of their best grapes, to honor his late grandfather, Leonard, the US ambassador to Belgium during the Nixon administration. At $60 and only 200 cases, it’s their show-off wine, and it certainly wowed us. So much depth and complexity and yet so….settled.

When he meets up with his buddies at Ruth Chris in SF (Andrew used to live in the Marina), they always bring expensive bottles — we’re talking $200 and up. They have the sommelier decant the wines, and then they drink them blind. Andrew says he brings The Ambassador and he’s proud to say that his wine consistently stands up to everything else at the table.

Posted on Tuesday, May 8th, 2007
Under: Paso Robles | No Comments »

It’s a beautiful day at Alapay Cellars

Standing on the boardwalk at Avila Beach on the Central Coast, with its Aptos-like pale and pastel buildings and dreamy waterfront, the scents of sand and sea blended to form one singular craving: Sauvignon Blanc.

I went tasting and beaching in my former stomping grounds over the weekend and much to my surprise, found an old favorite, Alapay Cellars, still holding prime coastal real estate on the boardwalk. When I left nearly three years ago, the city had its knickers in a twist over plans for development in the tiny beach-front hamlet. I’m so glad they went for it. Avila has retained its charm but has a bungalow style hotel — Avila Lighthouse Suites — on its boardwalk now.

Before catching some rays, Jenny and I hit the tasting room, just steps from the sand. We love their motto, “Come on in, the water’s wine!” Anytime we can use a wine pun, we do. We sometimes use them when they’re not appropriate too. Face it, “You bet, Shiraz!” just never gets old.

Anyway, Alapay’s talented winemaker, Scott Remmenga crafts a broad selection of wines, from a crisp SB with kiwi and cantaloupe that quenched my thirst to the late harvest Zin Port, (2003, $30) which recently won the gold medal at the SF Chronicle Wine Competition.

But my personal favorite was the 2002 Masix, a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre and Petit Sirah. Think straight up powdered cocao over blackberries. The wine has more than two years in the barrel, so it’s silky and soft and tastes more like a 1999. Nothing’s over $50, the tasting room’s open until 6 p.m. and its a totally cool place to hang out during the day. All in all, such a wonderful retreat from Napa.

Posted on Monday, May 7th, 2007
Under: San Luis Obispo | 2 Comments »