Rosenblum’s 30th anniversary gala
As I gear up for the Urban Wine Experience at Jack London Square tomorrow, Aug. 9, it’s important to reflect on the East Bay’s roots as a wine region. There was no better reminder of that than last weekend’s dinner at Rosenblum Cellars, which celebrated the winery’s three decades of crafting vineyard-designate wines.
Many, in fact, have roots in Contra Costa vines. The Cline family of Cline Cellars was the first to source fruit from this area, but the Rosenblums were a close second, sourcing Zinfandel and Petit Sirah from Stan and Gertie Planchon’s 40-acre Oakley vineyard for decades.
Thomas Coyne, who was seated at our table, also gets grapes from the Planchons. Half of the vines on the vineyard, which is located on sloping, sandy terrain, are more than 100 years old (it was planted in 1902, according to Stan). They are head-pruned and dry farmed. Yields are typically two tons per acre of uber ripe, premium fruit.
My second favorite wine of the night, paired with braised short ribs from Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen in St. Helena, was the 2005 Kick Ranch Reserve Syrah from Sonoma County. Great balance of fruit and game with moderate tannins and a peppery kick. But my absolute favorite wine was a 1999 Cullinane Vineyards Zinfandel that Jeff Cohn of JC Cellars brought. He made the wine back when he worked at Rosenblum.
The Sonoma vineyard is surrounded by eucalyptus trees, so you get this gorgeous whiff of mint and a finish of oregano. It was breathtaking. I’m telling you, the way to drink (some) of these big wines is to lay them down for five years. If stored properly, they will seduce. The Rosenblums still make a small quantity of Reserve Zinfandel from this vineyard. It’s available only at the winery and runs about $45.
Incidentally, the event was top-notch, but there was an air of bitter-sweetness in the air mixed with nostalgia. As individuals called up to speak consumed more and more wine (or “truth serum” as Jeff and Alexandra Cohn whispered in my ear) those associated with the winery past and present made many references to the winery’s new parent company, Diageo, and its corporate ways. They seemed visibly bummed and concerned about the future.
Posted on Friday, August 8th, 2008
Under: Alameda county, east bay vintners | No Comments »




