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Rosenblum’s 30th anniversary gala

As I gear up for the Urban Wine Experience at Jack London Square tomorrow, Aug. 9, it’s important to reflect on the East Bay’s roots as a wine region. There was no better reminder of that than last weekend’s dinner at Rosenblum Cellars, which celebrated the winery’s three decades of crafting vineyard-designate wines.

Many, in fact, have roots in Contra Costa vines. The Cline family of Cline Cellars was the first to source fruit from this area, but the Rosenblums were a close second, sourcing Zinfandel and Petit Sirah from Stan and Gertie Planchon’s 40-acre Oakley vineyard for decades.

Thomas Coyne, who was seated at our table, also gets grapes from the Planchons. Half of the vines on the vineyard, which is located on sloping, sandy terrain, are more than 100 years old (it was planted in 1902, according to Stan). They are head-pruned and dry farmed. Yields are typically two tons per acre of uber ripe, premium fruit.

My second favorite wine of the night, paired with braised short ribs from Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen in St. Helena, was the 2005 Kick Ranch Reserve Syrah from Sonoma County. Great balance of fruit and game with moderate tannins and a peppery kick. But my absolute favorite wine was a 1999 Cullinane Vineyards Zinfandel that Jeff Cohn of JC Cellars brought. He made the wine back when he worked at Rosenblum.

The Sonoma vineyard is surrounded by eucalyptus trees, so you get this gorgeous whiff of mint and a finish of oregano. It was breathtaking. I’m telling you, the way to drink (some) of these big wines is to lay them down for five years. If stored properly, they will seduce. The Rosenblums still make a small quantity of Reserve Zinfandel from this vineyard. It’s available only at the winery and runs about $45.

Incidentally, the event was top-notch, but there was an air of bitter-sweetness in the air mixed with nostalgia. As individuals called up to speak consumed more and more wine (or “truth serum” as Jeff and Alexandra Cohn whispered in my ear) those associated with the winery past and present made many references to the winery’s new parent company, Diageo, and its corporate ways. They seemed visibly bummed and concerned about the future.

Posted on Friday, August 8th, 2008
Under: Alameda county, east bay vintners | No Comments »

JC Cellars Beach Party…and that Viognier

jc cellars rose

So you can’t bring the beach to an Oakland winery, but you can certainly bring an Oakland winery to the beach. Do it in the form of two new 2007 roses from JC Cellars - made from the venerable Stagecoach and Rockpile vineyards. Yes, pink wine! The Stagecoach is dry and herbaceous (think Old World) while the Rockpile is more true to New World fruit-forwardness. Both retail for $18 and were released last month.

They’ll be showcased at the winery’s semi annual open house from 1 to 5 p.m. on Sunday, Aug. 3. JC Cellars is located at 55 4th St., Oakland. Sip the roses to the tunes of the band Vermillion Border and munch on grilled sausages and artisan cheeses. Even more exciting: Jeff Cohn has 50 cases of 2006 Vin De Pays Des Collines Rhodanienees Viognier from Condrieu that he helped blend with longtime pal Francois Villard. There are only about 40 cases left and the wine retails for $40.

Advance tickets can be purchased at www.jccellars.com for $20 or $25 at the door. Take BART to Lake Merritt or ferry to Jack London Square. There will be a beach play area to keep kids entertained.

Posted on Tuesday, July 1st, 2008
Under: Alameda county, JC Cellars, Rose | No Comments »

Last call for Lost Canyon pairing event tomorrow

If you’re a Pinot Noir person, you don’t want to miss this. Tomorrow, May 17, I’ll be speaking at Lost Canyon Winery in Oakland about Pinot Noir and food. We’re taking three Pinot Noirs from the winery’s portfolio that range in style. I’ve customized three dishes that I think work very well with the three wines.

My presentation will include the elements of pairing, tricky foods and lots of wine trivia. Win prizes, taste great food and wine and learn about the art of pairing, or l’abbinamento.

Tickets are $30 and $15 for Lost Canyon wine club members. You can buy them at the door. The event is from 3 to 5 p.m. For more information, visit the winery’s web site.

Posted on Friday, May 16th, 2008
Under: Alameda county, Events, Pinot Noir, east bay vintners | No Comments »

Come to my Pinot pairing event!

Hey folks, I’m leading a Pinot Noir food pairing event at Lost Canyon Winery in Oakland this Saturday, May 17 from 3 to 5 p.m. The power point presentation will be almost as delicious as the wines.

Lost Canyon is easily making some of the state’s most sophisticated Pinot Noir in a range of styles. Come see what I pair them with and why plus win trivia prizes. The cost is $30 ($15 for Lost Canyon wine club members) and that gets you a taste of three Pinots plus three food samples and three recipes to take home.

Details are here. See you then.

Posted on Monday, May 12th, 2008
Under: Alameda county, East Bay, Oakland, Pinot Noir, east bay vintners, wine pairing | No Comments »

Wine tasting vs. spirits tasting

Can a wine drinker successfully navigate flights of vodka, eau de vie and single malt whiskey — all straight up?

I found out this weekend, when I put my palate to the test at St. George Spirits in Alameda. Housed in the old Naval Air Station not from from Rosenblum Cellars and the grounds of the monthly Antiques by the Bay, it’s a fantastic space, a sort of hangar-meets-club warehouse where, even 10 minutes to closing time, the modern rock’s blasting and the clientele’s buzzing.

Joel and I made it there with 19 minutes to spare, and decided to split the $10 tasting of 10-12 spirits. Looking back, neither one of us could’ve imagined doing it alone (and he’s a strapping, 6′1” man!).

The 2-3 ounce pours come in a cute grappa glass that you get to keep, but think about it: while wine pours are the same size, these spirits are as high as 43 percent alcohol! Certainly gives new perspective to a “hot” California Zinfandel clocking in at 16 percent. I took the first sip and let him down the rest.

Here are our standouts from the tasting:

Straight Hangar One Vodka: Made with viognier grapes, this was smooth and silky with a pure, clean finish and suppleness I attribute to viognier. Like no other vodka I’ve tasted. You almost don’t want to add anything to it. This is the one Joel bought.

Single Malt Whiskey: Shudder-free and elegant, this is aged for eight years and has a cocoa finish that goes on and on. I bought this for friend who loves serious scotch.

Hangar One Kaffir Lime Vodka: This woke my mouth up with its kicky, true-to-source kaffir limes (they always use real local fruit in their vodkas). Joel wasn’t wild about it.

We were good and liquored up so we didn’t feel like springing the extra $10 to try the St. George absinthe (I assumed it would be included, what with all the hype). Unfortunately, they weren’t featuring their savory vodkas, like chipotle or wasabi, while we were there. Next time!

Posted on Tuesday, March 25th, 2008
Under: Alameda county, viognier, vodka | 4 Comments »

A Donkey & Goat Open House

donkey & goat release party

I’ll be at Premiere in Napa next weekend but I highly recommend this Spring Release party on Feb. 23. Be the first to taste A Donkey & Goat’s latest sustainably-farmed, artisan releases.

They include a 2006 Brosseau Chardonnay (96 cases); 2006 Three Thirteen, almost equal parts Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache (308 cases); 2006 The Recluse, Anderson Valley and El Dorado Syrah with a kiss of Viognier (265 cases); and 2007 Isabel’s Cuvee Grenache Rose (120 cases).

The party includes live music from jazz trio, The Ramp, and word has it that the growers who supply A Donkey & Goat’s kick-ass grapes will also be around, so you can geek out and talk brix levels till you’re purple in the face.

The usual snacks and free souvenir glass round out the festivities, all for $20 at the door. If you print this page and take it with you, you’ll save five buck.

I’m bummed to be missing the event because Chris Brockway of Broc Cellars will be pouring his Rhone-style wines as well — a Syrah, Petite Syrah and Grenache. He sources fruit from Ventana Vineyards in addition to Dry Stack Vineyard, a relatively newcomer nestled in a cool-climate bowl between the Bennett, Taylor and Sonoma Mountains in the Bennett Valley. Taste the wines and let me know what you think.  

The event runs from 1 to 5 p.m. at the winery, 2323 B 4th St., Berkeley.  For more information contact tracey@adonkeyandgoat.com or call 510-868-9174.

 

Posted on Friday, February 15th, 2008
Under: Alameda county, Berkeley winery, urban wineries | No Comments »

Rosenblum sold for $105 million

The rumors have been confirmed. Rosenblum Cellars, the oldest and largest of the East Bay Vintners, was sold to international beverage consortium Diageo for $105 million today, according to Mike Kohne, Rosenblum’s director of marketing.

The intent is to keep everyone on board and run the Alameda family winery as is, Kohne tells me, adding that winemaker Kent Rosenblum, known worldwide for his vineyard-designate Zinfandel, Syrah and Petit Sirah, is being retained on a five-year contract and is eager to spend more time in the cellar. Rosenblum produced about 200,000 cases last year, with as many as 50 separate bottlings.

“It wasn’t a burning desire to sell,” Rosenblum said, according to a post on Wine Spectator online, “but we have a number of shareholders who are getting up in the years and have expressed an interest in their investments. I think this is a win-win situation for everyone.” Rosenblum, 63, was a veterinarian before starting the winery with his wife Kathy in 1978.

Kohne says the London-based Diageo, which owns Sterling, Beaulieu and Acacia wineries, will help Rosenblum buy new equipment and scout new vineyard sources. Diageo is the big leagues: They were a bidder on Robert Mondavi Winery back in 2004—for which competitor Constellation Brands paid $1.3 billion. That same year, Diageo acquired the Chalone Wine Group instead for $260 million.

The Diageo portfolio lacked a premium Zinfandel producer, hence the interest in Rosenblum. Judging by the record high attendance at ZAP, which wrapped up yet another breakthrough weekend yesterday, this was an incredibly smart move for Diageo. It’ll be interesting to see how the sale effects the landscape of the East Bay Vintners.

Posted on Monday, January 28th, 2008
Under: Alameda county, Zinfandel, rosenblum, urban wineries, vineyard designate | 5 Comments »

Edmunds St. John; Dashe makes “Top 100″

Finally looking over my notes from last weekend’s tasting at Harrington. I wrote about those wines earlier this week, but neglected to mention three lovely wines from Edmunds St. John that I tasted.

Edmunds St. John is the like the mother winery of the East Bay Vintners. They’re one of the pioneers and no doubt churn out some great juice. Here’s a rundown of what stood out to me. Visit them at www.edmundsstjohn.com:

2006 Bone-Jolly Rose: Gamay rose! It’s about time in these parts (outside of Placerville, to be exact). It’s a dark pink, snappy wine with bright red fruits in the nose and a wild, kick of pepper on the palate. Just my kind of rose; reminiscent of those made in the Languedoc. $16; 340 cases.

2005 Rocks and Gravel: This red blend comes from no less than nine vineyards. It’s a spicy combination of Grenache and Syrah with beautiful satiny tannins and dark red fruits. The finish goes on a lot longer than most tight 2005s you taste, especially with such low alcohol. (14.2%). It’s an open wine. Impressive. $18; 1,340 cases.

Speaking of East Bay Vintners, quick note about Dashe Cellars: Wine & Spirits magazine recently named the Oakland winery one of the top 100 in world, and among the top 27 in California. The magazine’s competition is based on a tasting of 9,100 wines. Congrats Mike and Anne!

Posted on Friday, December 7th, 2007
Under: "In Wine Country", Alameda county, Rose, urban wineries | No Comments »

Harrington’s holiday sale this weekend

Ok, I know I’m a little event happy right now, but ’tis the season, eh? The weather’s brisk yet the sun is shining, so we need to take advantage before it starts raining buckets next month.

You already know about Lost Canyon Winery’s Holiday Open House this weekend. Also good to know: Harrington, another maker of fine, single-vineyardPinot Noir, is having its annual holiday sale this Saturday and Sunday, Dec. 1 and 2, from noon to 5 p.m. at the winery, 805 Camelia St., Berkeley.

Harrington will be pouring all five Pinot Noirs from the 2006 vintage. They’ll also be pouring wines from Eno and Edmund St. John. Wow your friends with local, small production wines of exceptional quality.  The press release from Bryan Harrington says to bring friends. So I’m bringing all ya’ll. See ya then.

Posted on Friday, November 30th, 2007
Under: Alameda county, Berkeley winery, East Bay, Pinot Noir, Wine tasting, urban wineries | 2 Comments »

Five standouts from Urban Wine Experience

I haven’t blogged about the Urban Wine Experience on purpose because I’m devoting an entire cover to the wines, the people and the overall movement in our paper on Sept. 19.

But for now, I can’t help but gush about some of the wines. I’m very proud this is all happening in my backyard (the 15 wineries that make up the East Bay Vintners are in Berkeley, Oakland and Alameda areas).

If you missed the event, here are the wines you need to get your hands on now. Look out for my story in the Food & Wine pages of both our paper and the Oakland Tribune on Sept. 19, where I hope to tell their stories:

The winery: Harrington Pinot Noir, Berkeley.
What to try: The Carneros pinot was my favorite, but since that’s hard to find, I recommend the 2005 Sonoma Coast ($38). They made 160 cases of it. It’s got a lot of big tannins, dark fruit and game.
Find at: Solano Cellars, Albany and Farmstead Cheeses & Wines, Alameda.

The winery: Dashe Cellars, Oakland.
What to try: 2006 Dry Riesling from McFadden Farms ($20), in Mendocino County’s Potter Valley appellation. Bone dry, it’s got an orange blossom nose and honeysuckle flavor. Gorgeous acidity. I can’t wait to have this with Burmese food.
Find at: Their web site, or call the distributor.

The winery: Eno, North Berkeley.
What to try: Grenache “G05,” Eaglepoint Ranch, Mendocino ($25). The 10 percent Syrah deepends this wine’s color and mouth feel yet stays completely true to the varietal, with bright colored fruit flavors. I can see why, as it was age in neutral French oak.
Find at: on their site.

The winery: JC Cellars, Oakland.
What to try: 2005 Preston Vineyard Marsanne ($32), gorgeous, lush, full of mineral and a treat to be home grown. If you can afford it, get your hands on the Pourquoi Pas ($135) as well, half winemaker Jeff Cohn’s Rockpile Syrah and half his buddy, French winemaker Pierre Gaillard’s Northern Rhone Syrah, from Cote Rotie. As of last weekend, they only had 9 cases left but boy is this stuff beautiful. It’s the only Syrah blend of its kind and should age beautifully for at least a decade.
Find at: on their site.

The winery: Aubin Cellars, Oakland.
What to try: 2004 Columbia Valley Syrah. Boy oh boy, talk about complex and black currant goodness. Washington state’s long growing season (harvest in October) helped I’m sure.
Find at: Du Vin Fine Wines, Alameda.

Posted on Monday, August 27th, 2007
Under: Alameda county | 4 Comments »