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Two East Coast wine lists

Hey Corkheads. I’m back from vacation.  Sigh. We headed east, starting in the Boston area and ending up in the tri-state glory of Maryland, Virginia and Washington, D.C. Where else can you eat mouth-watering, Zagat-rated Peruvian chicken in one state and hop to another for a frozen salted caramel in a hip chocolate lounge?

Yes, we ate our way through these states, relishing in the restaurants of Boston’s Newbury Street and up-and-coming South End not to mention Washington, D.C.’s revitalized downtown. But we didn’t necessarily drink our way through these towns. Granted, we couldn’t hit every restaurant, and wine bars were scarce.

Nonetheless, two restaurants’ wine lists impressed me, and I wanted to pass them on to you. The Elephant Walk in the Brookline neighborhood of Boston showcased wines made for this restaurant’s aromatic and hypnotic French-Cambodian cuisine. For whites, the wine director went as far as to separate Rieslings into “crisp with minerals” and “fruit-driven and off-dry.” They separated Old World Sauvignon Blanc from its New World counterpart, and offered plenty of Alsatian and Austrian options. Red-wise, my favorite part of the list was that they separated Pinot Noir into Burgundy, California and cool climate Oregon and New Zealand. Comes in very handy if you want to experiment with a red wine and all those exotic, lemongrass-based  soups.

Alas, we were seduced by two 2006 whites imported exclusively for the Elephant Walk by J.L. Wolf in Pfalz Germany: the Riesling and Pinot Gris. Both showed beautiful stone fruit flavors with a silky texture and a long mineral finish.

In Washington, D.C., I really enjoyed perusing the progressive list at Clyde’s, a chain restaurant that caters to the government crowd and had a keen knowledge of California Pinot Noir. The location in the heart of Chinatown won me over with its reasonable mark ups. Some great Carneros buys.

One observation: I was asked to select the wine for a table of eight and after much deliberation (this always brings out the geek in me but also stresses me out a bit)  I went with a 2006 Saintsbury Pinot Noir, figuring its ample fruit and light to medium body will be a good accompaniment to my clam bake and my neighbor’s barbecued chicken sandwich. Anyway, when the wine arrived and I went through the usual drill of swirling it in the light, under my nose and in my mouth, I garnered a few giggles!

It reminded me that wine is so much a part of life here in northern California — the observation of it, the discussion of it and the enjoyment of it are weaved into our lives here. When we go away it’s a swift reminder of how it’s not the same elsewhere, and even how silly all those things can seem.

Posted on Tuesday, August 26th, 2008
Under: Restaurants, salad wine, wine bar, wine stats | No Comments »

Great wine list at Oakland’s Bellancio

Bellancio Oakland Glenview District

The Glenview District of Oakland is straight-up stoked. Finally, Blackberry Bistro has a cool culinary next door neighbor in the form of Bellancio, an Italian bistro specializing in seasonal rustic fare.

Not surprisingly, the wine list is Old World, with a heavy lean on Italy. Last night, to accompany my ricotta and beet ravioli, I got a glass of biodynamic (there were 13 organic/biodynamic selections), 100 percent Anas Cetta from Cogno in Piemonte.

The ultra rare white varietal only grows in the Novello commune and has a ballsy, fruity presence with a nose of pure rose petals. I was more taken with the nose than flavors, which showed too much honey and fruit for me. You can find the wine at Zza’s as well.

Posted on Tuesday, May 20th, 2008
Under: Oakland, Restaurants | 3 Comments »

Top wines ordered in U.S. restaurants

Kendall Jackson 2004 Cab Sauv

Just read an interesting report about wine sold in restaurants. In the U.S., restaurants are most likely to feature California wines that sell for less than $39 a bottle, according to Winemetrics LLC.

The start-up research firm’s first annual “On-Premise Wine Distribution Report” was released yesterday. It ranks the nation’s top 100 wine brands based on the frequency of their inclusion on restaurant wine lists.

Topping the list: Beringer (eh), Kendall-Jackson, (eh again) and Robert Mondavi (go for the Reserve). In fourth and fifth place, respectively, are Beaulieu Vineyard (woohoo!) and Washington state’s Chateau Ste. Michelle. I downed their Chard at my friend Elizabeth’s wedding in June. Good stuff.

Winemetrics’ data was gathered from over 10,000 casual and fine-dining restaurants in 20 states. Upscale restaurants obviously had more extensive lists. The study was generated partly because many consumers buy wine based on what they taste at restaurants.

I remember, when Jenny and I were living in San Luis Obispo, we ordered Wild Horse Merlot at every restaurant. These days, I’m much more likely to order a Spanish Cava, sparkling rose, or a Gruner Veltliner. Something that goes really well with food. Anyway, I digress.

Anyway, back to the study. U.S. consumers spent $24.3 billion on wine in 2005, with $11.8 billion coming from restaurants and bars.

The top 100 list is dominated by U.S. producers, with most coming from California. There are also 15 wine makers from France, seven from Italy, two from Australia and one from Chile.

Other brands near the top of the list include Caymus and Cakebread as well as Sterling Vineyards, Veuve Clicquot, and Fortune Brands Inc.’s Clos du Bois. Major eh for the latter. All the others? Fab wines.

According to the sample, the largest portion of wines consumed in restaurants sell for between $25 and $39 per bottle, according to the report. Those bottles would cost $13 to $19 at retail.

Red wines outnumber whites by a ratio of two to one, with Cabernet Sauvignon edging out Chardonnay for the top variety. Pinot Noir was the second most common type of red wine listed. And Merlot was third even thought it far outsells Pinot Noir in volume.

Posted on Friday, August 17th, 2007
Under: Restaurants, Wine | 2 Comments »

Bong Su offers complimentary tastings

If you like Vietnamese food and want to learn more about the wines that marry well with it, definitely hit up Bong Su in San Francisco. They’ve opened up Wine Director John McDaniel’s time to the public, at no charge, as long as you have a dinner reservation. He consulted at my birthday dinner in February, helping me settle on a Gruner Veltliner that was a hit with the shaking beef, aromatic curries and shrimp cupcakes the 10 of us ordered.

Basically, guests are invited to arrange a tasting with McDaniel in Bong Su’s glass-enclosed tasting room — stocked with boutique selections from around the world — prior to their meal. 5:30 is a good time, and you can bring up to eight people, I’m told. The tasting typically lasts around half an hour, and you will sample anywhere from thee to 10 wines.

While you nibble on small bites from Chef Tammy Huynh, McDaniel guides the group through
a tasting of wines open for the evening, hoping to tease your palate into ordering some with the upcoming meal, and turning you on to new wines and novel pairings. You may know what you like with crab and noodles (Taltarni Brut Rose, please!) but what about pho?

Check it out.

Posted on Thursday, July 5th, 2007
Under: Restaurants, San Francisco, Wine tasting, wine pairing | No Comments »

Piemonte tasting at Prima

John Rittmaster of Prima is hosting their Second Annual Evening in Piemonte this Thursday (tomorrow) and they still have a few seats available. Like last year, the evening will be divided into two separate events. The first will be a tasting of contemporary wines from the region with the suppliers on hand and special one-night-only pricing in place.

The second is a dinner featuring a selection of mature Barolo alongside an elegant expression of Piemontese cuisine. Admission for the first event, which runs from 5:30 to 7p.m. is $48 and includes tax and tip. Seats at the dinner are $395 and all-inclusive. I know it’s expensive, but if you have the money, treat yourself! RSVP for either event by calling 925-935-7780.

            A Sampling of Wines at the Tasting:

            2005 Matteo Coreggia Roero Arneis

            2005 Vietti Roero Arneis

            2005 Tintero Moscato d’Asti

            2005 Villa Giada Moscato d’Asti

            2005 Cascina Ca’Rossa Birbet

            2004 Aldo Marenca Dolcetto Dogliani ‘Suri’

            2004 Massolino Dolcetto d’Alba

            2005 Albino Rocca Rosso di Rosso

            2004 Giovanni Corino Barbera d’Alba

            2004 Vietti Barbera Scarrone

            2001 Travaglini Gattinara

            2001 Antoniolo Gattinara 

            2004 Guido Porro Barbera

            2000 Vietti Barolo Castiglione

            2001 Guido Porro Barolo Santa Catarina

            2001 Massolino Barolo Serralunga 

            2001 Giorgio Rivetti Barbaresco Gallina

            2001 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco

            2001 Scavino Barolo Carobric

            (list tentative)

            And for Dinner!

            2005 Matteo Coreggia Roero Arneis

            2001 Vietti Barbera La Crena

            2001 Rivetti Barolo Campe

            2000 E Pira Barolo Cannubi

            2000 Mascarello Barolo Monprivato

            1993 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Cru Gallina

            1993 Angelo Gaja Barbaresco Cru Costa Russi 

            1993 Giovanni Corino Barolo Cru Giachini

            1990 Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi

            1974 Borgogno Barolo Riserva

            1967 Antoniolo Gattinara Riseva 

            1952 Borgogno Barolo Riserva

            2005 Moscato TBA

            (list tentative)

Posted on Wednesday, November 8th, 2006
Under: Contra Costa County, Restaurants, Walnut Creek, wine pairing | No Comments »

Lark Creek corkage

So, like Postino, Lark Creek Restaurant in Walnut Creek has a low corkage — only $15. So for Jenny’s birthday last night, I brought a 2002 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon and Michaela brought L’Etoile, a sparkling from Domain Chandon. We figured $30 for six people to each have two glasses of wine was pretty good. But when Jenny’s friend Keith ordered a half bottle of red, the waiter waived both corkages. Woohoo! It’s the restaurant’s policy. And it’s my policy to pass these good deals on to you. Cheers and happy Friday.

Posted on Friday, November 3rd, 2006
Under: Restaurants, corkage, half bottles | No Comments »

Affordable corkage

The next time you want to save some cash on dinner and take your own bottle of wine, go to Postino. Not only is it easily the best restaurant in the county, but their corkage is only $15. So your table of five can enjoy that bottle of Silver Oak from home for about $3 a person.

Posted on Friday, September 8th, 2006
Under: Contra Costa County, Restaurants, corkage | No Comments »

Luka’s Taproom 1/2 off wine

Following a trend of a lot of San Francisco restaurants, Luka’s Taproom and Lounge in Oakland is offering their bottles of wine at 50 percent off on Sundays. So, no, you don’t have to order just a glass. Check em out for more info: www.lukasoakland.com/.

Posted on Friday, July 28th, 2006
Under: Restaurants | No Comments »

Twente

Friday was a quintessential Livermore Valley night. Mom was visiting, so we escaped to Wente to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the restaurant and the concert series. Fifth-generation winemaker Karl Wente, all 6′7” of him clad in a red dinner jacket and a platinum mop to boot, unveiled two fabulous wines: the Twente Chardonnay, which paired deliciously with a butter lettuce salad, and a Cab-Syrah, strong and smoky, which we had with beef carpaccio. We rocked out to Busta-Groove — the whole place was up and dancing — and schmoozed with Christine Wente, Karl’s sister, and took in golden rolling hills and sandstone caves. The party was a blast, and no doubt packed with Wente’s loyal wine club members. Didn’t have a chance to take mom to Napa, but I’m glad. Livermore’s got its own magic. Now she can tell everyone in So Cal about it.

Posted on Monday, June 19th, 2006
Under: Contra Costa County, Food and Drink, Livermore, Restaurants, Winemakers dinner, winemaker | No Comments »

Beauregard’s winemakers dinner

Affordable wines might be easy to find, but winemakers’ dinners? Not so much. So when I spotted one for May 31 at Beauregard’s California Bistro in Albany (with Robert Hall Winery, one of my favorite Paso wineries, pouring), I felt obliged to share it with ya’ll.

Six courses at $65 is a steal, not to mention that proceeds benefit Fresh Start Walnut Creek, a respite and service center for those among the homeless and working poor. If that’s not enough, take a peak at the menu. Try not to drool on your keyboard:

   1.Light, seasonal, organic baby lettuces and sweet grapefruit sections in a
    Grapefruit-herb Vinaigrette

Accompanied by Robert Hall 2005 Hall Ranch Sauvignon Blanc

2.Pissaladiere (Provençal Pizzetta with caramelized onion confit, Niçoise Olives,
    Anchovy, Parmagiano Reggiano and herbes de Provençe)

Accompanied by Robert Hall 2003 Paso Robles Meritage

3.Large Day Boat Scallop with Scallion-Basil olive oil and Passion Fruit
    Reduction

Accompanied by Robert Hall 2005 Paso Robles Chardonnay

4.Handmade Wide Pasta noodles with housemade, cumin-scented Duck
    Sausage, blanched spinach, wood oven-roasted shallots, sundried tomatoes and
    thyme in a duck stock reduction

Accompanied by Robert Hall 2003 Central Coast Rhone de Robles

5.Grilled Venison Fillet with currants, juniper, and Cabernet Sauce; served with
    wild rice and fiddlehead ferns*

Accompanied by Robert Hall 2003 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon

6.Port-poached Pear with toasted walnuts and Cave-aged Gorgonzola

Accompanied by Robert Hall 2003 Central Coast Vintage Port

Ok, I’m sure space is limited so make your reservations today by calling Beauregard’s at 510-526-7200. Tell ‘em Corkheads sent you!

Posted on Wednesday, May 3rd, 2006
Under: Events, Food and Drink, Paso Robles, Restaurants, Wine, Winemakers dinner | No Comments »