For a long time, costume designer, Ruth Myers has been dressing actors in actresses in films like L.A. Confidential and The Painted Veil. She was even nominated for Academy Award for for her work in Emma and The Addams Family. She also won an Emmy for costuming in HBO’s Carnivale. Now, she is dressing the fantasy world of The Golden Compass.
Can she have any more accolades?
When I had the chance to chat with the Manchester-born designer on the phone, I was kind of intimidated. I thought she would be this hoity-toity English type that would make me feel worthless - but I was happy to find out that she was the exact opposite.
When I called, I found comfort and sweetness in her accent. I pictured a nice English lady on the other end. The kind of neighbor who would insist you come over for tea time in her fancy living room.
After hushing her barking dogs and telling me that her Los Angeles home was being renovated, we talked about her “Golden Compass” vision and how it was like working with Nicole Kidman and Daniel Craig.
From the very beginning to you have a clear vision on what you wanted the characters to look like? What kind of world did you want to create?
The book is in our time – but not our time. You read the books thinking, I know these people, but not really. There is this wonderful ambivalence. I worked very hard to create four worlds : the Gytians, Lyra’s world, Coulter’s world and the witches. It was a very collaborative film. We were terribly inter-involved with (makeup, hair and production design.) It does show in the film. It gives in an extra dimension.
Dakota Blue Richards stars as the young “golden” heroine, Lyra Belacqua in this youthful icy blue dress
I wanted to look at things differently. We painted, burnt and dyed everything. I wasn’t looking for the perfect piece of fabric. I wanted to make the perfect piece of fabric. (For example) Lyra’s red coat, its knitted from twine, cut fabric.
All photos courtesy of New Line Cinema
Lyra Belacqua chills out with her ice bear friend, Iorek Byrnison (voiced by Ian McKellen) in a coat made out of twine and fabric.
What are some of your favorite costumes in the film?
The Gyptians were enormous fun to do. I loved working with the witches. There is one point in the film where we had 40 witches flying to the north. Of course, they were reproduced to make it look like there were many more. They were in their fluttering outfits – it was exciting!
Eva Green wears the fluttery design of Myers as the witch, Serafina Pekkala.
The Gyptians have a style that merges an eskimo, a gypsy and a pirate.
How do you make a costume that is unbelievably eye catching, but doesn’t take too much away from the actor’s performance?
That’s the skill of this particular job. If you could do that – it is wonderful.
In the book, (Nicole Kidman’s character, Marisa Coulter) is described as the most beautiful and glamorous of the universe, but coldest. It was hard to give all these elements. I was inspired by the ’40s and ’50s. I came up with something like Greta Garbo. She’s slightly remote, but exquisite. She is icy and her colors are always the same.
Nicole Kidman looks like she is strutting down a catwalk as villainess Marisa Coulter in Myers’s seductively evil golden gown
Nicole has a cape which you don’t see in the movie. We created an animal print on a fabric. It was the sort of object that you look at and say “OH GOD ITS SO BEAUTIFUL!” I thought it would overwhelm her, so I brought an alternative outfit.
When she put on the outfit she looked at me and smiled, “You thought I wouldn’t be able to work this, did you?” (laughs). She was wonderful to dress.
What about Daniel Craig?
I have worked with Daniel before, so we have a history. We like each other very much. We have real trust and that is very important. Lord Asriel looked swashbuckling in the stage production. But it’s not what I saw. Daniel and I talked about using this hand woven tweed from the ’30s. I showed it to him and he said, “go for it!”
Daniel Craig is a dapper man in this Edwardian cut suit
Besides your own, what are some of your favorite movies in terms of style and costuming?
I love and am devoted to ‘30s and ‘40s films. I saw “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes” a few nights ago, I think that those are simply superb designs. “Queen Margot” was exquisitely done. And Arianne Phillips did immaculate designs for “Walk the Line.”
What about more modern films, like the upcoming “Sex and the City” movie?
I love those outfits from the show. That is real design bravery. I love people who take risks.
Do you think that film influences fashion or vice versa?
I think as far as period and fantasy films like this, film influences fashions. But for modern films it’s the opposite.
I think it was Vera Wang that said the wedding dress that I did for “Emma” was the most copied dress. I got a lot of letters from people asking me to design their wedding dress.
Have you taken some of these requests?
I designed wedding dresses for friends before. I also did a design for Geena Davis. I don’t do it often though.
How would you describe your own personal style?
Eclectic and hopeful – although hopeful would be a better term than eclectic (laughs).
What did you wear to the premiere?
I wore a short Valentino sequin jacket with trousers. I’ve been collecting vintage clothing for the last 40 years. I have an attic full of clothes!
Nicole Kidman, Cate Blanchett, Jessica Alba - all of them are expecting. Christina Aguilera and Nicole Ritchie just popped some out. They’re glowing. They’re beautiful. They manage to lose the weight instantly after they give birth. That’s wonderful. But I am burnt out over A-list pregnancies.
